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Perhaps even a person far from electronics has heard that there is such an element as a relay. The simplest electromagnetic relay contains an electromagnet, when voltage is applied to it, two other contacts are closed. With the help of a relay, we can switch a fairly powerful load, applying or vice versa, removing voltage from the control contacts. The most widespread are relays controlled from 12 volts. There are also relays for voltages of 3, 5, 24 volts.

However, you can switch a powerful load not only with the help of a relay. Recently, high-power field-effect transistors have become widespread. One of their main purposes is to operate in key mode, i.e. the transistor is either closed or completely open when the resistance of the Drain-Source junction is practically zero. You can open a field-effect transistor by applying voltage to the gate relative to its source. You can compare the operation of a switch on a field-effect transistor with the operation of a relay - voltage is applied to the gate, the transistor opens, and the circuit closes. The voltage was removed from the gate - the circuit was opened, the load was de-energized.

In this case, a field-effect transistor switch has some advantages over a relay, such as:

  • Great durability. Quite often, relays fail due to the presence of mechanically moving parts, but a transistor under the right operating conditions has a much longer service life.
  • Economical. The relay winding consumes current, sometimes quite significant. The gate of the transistor consumes current only when voltage is applied to it, then it consumes virtually no current.
  • No clicks when switching.

Scheme

The switch circuit for the field effect transistor is presented below:

Field effect transistor key

The resistor R1 in it is current-limiting; it is needed in order to reduce the current consumed by the gate at the moment of opening; without it, the transistor may fail. The value of this resistor can be easily changed within a wide range, from 10 to 100 Ohms, this will not affect the operation of the circuit.

Resistor R2 pulls the gate to the source, thereby equalizing their potentials when no voltage is applied to the gate. Without it, the gate will remain “hanging in the air” and the transistor cannot be guaranteed to close. The value of this resistor can also be changed within a wide range - from 1 to 10 kOhm.

Transistor T1 is an N-channel field-effect transistor. It must be selected based on the power consumed by the load and the value of the control voltage. If it is less than 7 volts, you should take a so-called “logical” field-effect transistor, which reliably opens from a voltage of 3.3 - 5 volts. They can be found on computer motherboards. If the control voltage is in the range of 7-15 volts, you can take a “regular” field-effect transistor, for example, IRF630, IRF730, IRF540 or any other similar ones.In this case, you should pay attention to such a characteristic as the open channel resistance. Transistors are not ideal, and even in the open state, the resistance of the Drain-Source junction is not zero. Most often it amounts to hundredths of an Ohm, which is not at all critical when switching a low-power load, but is very significant at high currents. Therefore, in order to reduce the voltage drop across the transistor and, accordingly, reduce its heating, you need to choose a transistor with the lowest open-channel resistance.

“N” in the diagram – any load.

The disadvantage of a transistor switch is that it can only work in DC circuits, because the current flows only from Drain to Source.

Making a field-effect transistor switch

It is possible to assemble such a simple circuit using surface mounting, but I decided to make a miniature printed circuit board using laser-iron technology (LUT). The procedure is as follows:

1) Cut out a piece of PCB that fits the dimensions of the printed circuit board design, clean it with fine sandpaper and degrease it with alcohol or solvent.

2) We print the design of the printed circuit board on special thermal transfer paper. You can use glossy magazine paper or tracing paper. The toner density on the printer should be set to maximum.

3) Transfer the design from paper to textolite using an iron. In this case, you should ensure that the paper with the design does not move relative to the textolite. The heating time depends on the temperature of the iron and ranges from 30 to 90 seconds.

4) As a result, a mirror image of the tracks appears on the PCB. If the toner does not stick well to the future board in some places, you can correct the flaws using women's nail polish.

5) Next, we put the textolite to be etched.There are many ways to make an etching solution, I use a mixture of citric acid, salt and hydrogen peroxide.

After etching, the board takes on this form:

6) Then you need to remove the toner from the PCB, the easiest way to do this is with nail polish remover. You can use acetone and other similar solvents; I used petroleum solvent.

7) It’s just a matter of small things - now all that’s left is to drill holes in the right places and tin the board. After this it looks like this:

The board is ready for parts to be soldered into it. You only need two resistors and a transistor.

The board has two contacts for supplying control voltage, two contacts for connecting the source powering the load, and two contacts for connecting the load itself. The board with soldered parts looks like this:

As a load to test the operation of the circuit, I took two powerful 100 Ohm resistors connected in parallel.

I plan to use the device in conjunction with a humidity sensor (board in the background). It is from this that the control voltage of 12 volts is supplied to the key circuit. Tests have shown that the transistor switch works perfectly, supplying voltage to the load. The voltage drop across the transistor was 0.07 volts, which in this case is not at all critical. The transistor does not heat up even with constant operation of the circuit. Happy build!

Download the board and diagram:
plata.zip [4.93 Kb] (downloads: 1920)
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Comments (11)
  1. Ilya
    #1 Ilya Guests March 26, 2018 08:50
    7
    The relay has an important advantage: the control contacts, as a rule, galvanically are decoupled from the load and it allows you to switch alternating current of dangerous voltages
  2. Guest Anatoly
    #2 Guest Anatoly Guests April 5, 2018 09:17
    1
    Everything is fine, but you need to drill before etching. And there is no need to maintain the paths. Copper foil can easily fly off from the PCB
    1. Alejandro
      #3 Alejandro Guests 13 June 2019 12:16
      6
      Drilling before etching is fraught with the risk of the drill flying out of the drilling site (it is necessary to core).
      It's worth maintaining the paths. Firstly, the track will be able to conduct more current through itself, and secondly, the oxidation of copper foil has not yet been canceled
  3. UR3ICN
    #4 UR3ICN Guests 28 April 2018 20:05
    3
    Regarding the manufacture of the board, everything was done correctly. The only thing is that you need to drill the holes before removing the toner. After that, clean it with fine sandpaper, thereby simultaneously removing the toner and also the flash that appears around the drill holes. And then wipe it with a pure solvent, preferably 647. As for the bill Tinning the conductors on the seal is up to everyone to decide for themselves. However, a person who respects himself and his work will definitely tin it.
  4. Volodya
    #5 Volodya Guests 24 September 2018 21:37
    0
    How to make a circuit for such a key: there is a device that gives an output from 0 to 10 volts.I can set any voltage. I need to be able to control the relay: turn it on and off, the logic is not important. but it is important: at 10 volts the circuit resistance is at least 20 kOhm. Those. along the way, no more than 0.5mA of control current comes out. The supply voltage I have there is 5.12.24 volts. I somehow moved away from radio engineering... My brain was overloaded looking for an answer. If you can help...
  5. Guest Alexey
    #6 Guest Alexey Guests 31 October 2018 10:12
    4
    The question is which transient will suit me. I need to switch the electric pump 12V 16A. control voltage 12.5-13v. It is advisable to regulate this battery voltage when the solar panels charge them; I need the pump to turn on.
  6. Guest Vladislav
    #7 Guest Vladislav Guests March 31, 2019 11:26
    4
    Hello. Could you please tell me a diagram of a key with a common positive and a supply voltage of 3 volts, a load of 2 amperes.
  7. Guest Gennady
    #8 Guest Gennady Guests 2 January 2020 22:04
    3
    Good day, dear radio electronics specialists. I am faced with a task that I still cannot realize. The power supply is designed to charge the battery and can operate in 1 of 2 modes. 1) Uout is constantly 12-15v and 2) a voltage of 12-15v or 0.5v is periodically present. The period is (adjustable) and consists of time with Uout = 12-15v (1 to 30 sec.) and with Uout = 0.5v (1-30 sec.), the speed does not matter. I would like to carry out an automatic contactless connection of the load (for example, a car lamp with a current of 2-3A) to the output of the power supply unit and, accordingly, simultaneously to the battery during the period of time Uout = 0.5v and vice versa, disconnect the load at Uout = 12-15v. I would appreciate your help in solving this problem. If possible, write in a personal message.
  8. Rinat
    #9 Rinat Guests 4 February 2021 19:00
    1
    Thank you, it was useful
  9. Guest Grandfather
    #10 Guest Grandfather Guests 6 October 2022 22:12
    2
    I made myself such a thing on the IRF830 - R1=51 Om R2=7k5.It works great - in the music center it turns on the power to the bluetooth board from Aliexpress when the "TAPE" mode is turned on, when +5 V comes from the controller, the negative is connected, and to power the board I use a 12 volt power supply from the router. Thank you, buddy, the diagram is what you need!
    1. rfergregre dfgegerg
      #11 rfergregre dfgegerg Guests 15 November 2022 12:02
      1
      why a 500 volt field switch? Is Bluetooth assembled on lamps?

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