The homemade product we are considering today deserves attention, if only because it really helps solve the problem of sawing using a conventional drill or screwdriver. It is permissible to make it at home with your own hands. And this is not some disposable device. This is a full-fledged technical tool-attachment that expands the capabilities of the main electrical device, which, as we thought earlier, was intended only for drilling and tightening screws. With it, you can actually cut a block or even a board with a regular hacksaw blade and turn a regular drill into a reciprocating saw. Let's see how this can be done.
Operating principle of the saw
In fact, the torque of the drill does not go away.It is only transformed by a kind of friction transmission into reciprocating movements due to a crooked bearing. Its body slides between two small bearings mounted vertically on a small metal square. It is this element that sets in motion the canvas, which is tightened at its end into a special clamp. The nozzle is mounted on a shaft machined to a sufficient diameter for a drill or screwdriver chuck.
Making an attachment for sawing wood
Let’s make it clear right away that such a device cannot be assembled from improvised means. Most of it is quite accurately measured in size, machined on lathes and milling machines. However, if you doubt the capabilities of your workshop, they can always be made to order.
Before starting work, it is worth making a drawing of this assembly, calculating the dimensions of each element and adjusting them proportionally. Our device is made entirely of metal, and therefore a vice is a must-have tool this time.
Making a shaft with a bearing
This element requires a metal rod. Its cross-section should be the same if possible, so it is best if it is turned on a lathe.
We clamp it in a vice, and approximately in the middle we grind off an oblique groove with a file as in the photo.
We turn the rod over to the opposite side and make a mirror groove, leaving a thickness of only 2-3mm to accommodate the bearing.
We place the bearing on the shaft seat, bored out with a file. We will need the most ordinary bearing - ball, single-row, open type. The mounting hole, as well as the diameter of the outer ring, will have to be selected experimentally.
Special clamps will help secure the bearing to the shaft.We make them from pieces of tube tightly fitted onto the shaft. These sections must be cut exactly to the angle of inclination of the bearing. To clamp onto the shaft, these tubes must be equipped with a hole with a screw for a small hexagon, similar to a stop for drills.
We fix these clamps by pressing them tightly against the bearing housing so that their walls only touch the inner ring.
We take four washers of a suitable diameter and place them in pairs on each side of the shaft. This will help reduce the friction of the shaft clamps on the side supports of our attachment during operation. The shaft and bearing are ready!
We equip the body of our device
Surely everyone understands that the shaft itself will not work separately. It requires supports on which it will rest and relative to which it will move. They should be like in the photo - two squares with holes for the free movement of the shaft on the side of the planes, and fastening holes with threads for bolts on the side of the ribs. This structure is assembled like this (photo).
We cover the structure with a small plate with four through holes along the edges and secure it with bolts. This will be the first case cover.
At this stage, our nozzle should look like this (photo)
On the opposite side we place two squares with mounting holes for bolts. They must be of such a size that the third square, which will be placed between them, can move freely relative to them.
The middle square needs to be prepared. We place two small bearings on it with screws. They will slide on the main large bearing mounted on the shaft.
We cover the squares with a lid similar to the first one and tighten it with screws. The nozzle is almost ready.You can see how the shaft and bearing move by pulling the middle square back and forth.
Making a tip for a reciprocating saw
In order to secure the hacksaw blade, an adapter-clamp is required. The tip proposed by the author has a square end groove. On the side of the planes there are clamping bolts for a hex key. When clamped tightly, they are recessed flush with the plane of the tip.
We place the clamp tip on the middle square and secure its position with a clamping bolt.
Now we insert the hacksaw blade into the tip and secure it with the next two clamping bolts.
To stabilize the work of the movable square with the blade when sawing, we add a stop angle (photo).
We fix it with two screws and center the groove on its edge relative to the blade.
The “reciprocating saw” attachment for the drill is ready. It is comfortable and safe to hold in your hands, and it takes up very little space. It’s really worth making such a tool for your workshop, since it can help out at the right time when sawing wood. All that remains is to try it in action and make sure of the wide capabilities of your instrument!
