Materials:
- rubber valve 28 mm;
- rubber piston 56 mm;
- valve mounting screw M6 with nut, washer and groover;
- assembly screws with M8 nuts - 4 pcs.
These parts can be purchased separately where pumps are sold, or purchased as a single repair kit. It is better to first try to disassemble the pump; perhaps its screws and nuts have not yet rusted and they do not need to be replaced, then a complete repair kit is not needed.
The process of repairing and adjusting the pump
In order for the pump to work with good performance, it is necessary to replace the worn piston and valve. After this, set the maximum amplitude of movement of the piston and adjust the electric drive gap.
When disassembling the pump, in most cases you will have to cut the nuts on the assembly screws, since they rust. After a cross cut with a grinder, they are easily removed.
Having disassembled the pump, you need to dismantle the old check valve located at the top. If it does not unscrew, then its nut can also be trimmed with a grinder.
After removing the check valve, you need to squeeze the plastic sleeve out of it. It is inserted into the new valve. After this, the rubber band is put on the M6 valve mounting screw with a washer. It needs to be threaded through the hole in the body. Then it is secured on the reverse side. First, the grower is installed, then the nut is tightened.
Next you need to replace the rubber piston. To do this, tighten 2 nuts, remove the old piston and replace it with a new one. Before this, you need to rearrange the steel bushing. There are adjusting washers under the piston, which should be left as is for now. It is important that when tightening the nuts, the force should be moderate.
After replacing worn consumables, the pump is adjusted. Using a caliper, the height of the piston installation relative to the plane of the rubber shock absorber is measured. Then you need to measure the distance from the beginning of the supporting surface to the beginning of the conical narrowing inside the upper part of the body. According to the manufacturer's recommendation, the gap between the piston and the body should be 1-2.5 mm. If it is larger, then you should remove the piston again and place adjusting washers under it to the required height. When the gap is smaller, the washers, on the contrary, are removed. To make the pump pump faster, it is better to adjust the gap closer to 2.5 mm.
Then you need to adjust the drive gap. To do this, measure the distance from the supporting surface of the lower part of the housing to the coil. Then the distance from the lower rubber shock absorber to the anchor is measured.The optimal gap should be 4.5-5.5 mm. If it does not correspond, then it is necessary to adjust it in a similar way by placing or removing washers, but between the armature and the shock absorber. To get to them, you will need to disassemble from above, removing the piston, stop, diaphragm, coupling and shock absorber from the rod. However, if the gap is larger, but there are marks from the armature on the coil, then it is better not to touch anything.
After replacing the rubber consumables and adjusting, the pump is put back together. It should be checked before lowering it into the well. To do this, you can immerse it in a container of water and evaluate how quickly it pumps a certain volume of water.
