Let's consider an alternative method of attaching an ax head to a handle without a traditional metal wedge. Any adult can do this kind of work if he is careful with the hot metal. This method is often used in America.
Will need
Materials:
- old axe;
- steel strip;
- new ax handle;
- olive oil;
- 2 furniture ties;
- anti-corrosion mastic.
Tools: hammer, metal brush, grinder, clamp, welding, drill, oven, magnet, fine file, gas torch, hex wrench, etc.
The process of attaching an ax head to a wooden ax handle without wedging
We wedge and remove the old ax handle and the metal wedge. Now we won’t need it, because we use a completely different principle of attaching the ax head to a wooden handle.
Use a metal brush to clean the ax head from deposits and rust. We find out that it was produced in 1958 from U7 steel. We hit the ax with a metal object and hear the ringing sound that metal makes without internal defects.
We cut a fragment from the old metal strip, cover the eye with it and weld it along the contour. We remove the excess strip flush with the edges of the cheeks of the canvas.
We choose a grip made from solid ash, but other types of wood are also suitable, providing the necessary strength of the ax handle. We drive it into the eye, which at the same time cuts off excess wood, which we then sand.
In the center of the plug on the eyelet drill two holes, one under the other and closer to the edges of the plug.
Before heat treatment, we “blunt” the ax blade so that the thin metal in this area does not burn through or deteriorate.
We make a fire and while it flares up, screw a magnet to the rod with wire, which is attracted to the cold head of the ax.
We throw the ax into the fire and heat it until it turns dark red or burgundy, which approximately corresponds to 770-800 degrees Celsius, when the metal loses its magnetic properties, as indicated by the magnet. Leave the ax in the stove for 8 hours to cool slowly as the fire dies out.
As a result, the steel is annealed, and it becomes soft and uniform throughout its entire volume. The metal is easily processed with a fine file.
The second time we heat the ax a little higher than the first time. Its glow should be bright red, which corresponds to approximately 800-830 degrees Celsius.
Next, we harden and self-temper the blade of the ax head in water. To do this, clean the blade with sandpaper and wait until the metal turns a dark tarnish color. In this case, the steel is tempered. And only then cool the ax completely.
After these procedures, the ax head acquired the necessary hardening, since it is already difficult to process it with a small file.
We clean the surface of the metal from traces of hardening, and so that it does not rust, we blacken the metal. To do this, apply olive or any other oil to the ax with a brush and burn it with a gas burner until a dark coating appears on the metal.
At the end of the handle according to the marks drill 2 blind holes. We make a transverse hole at one blind end, then turn the handle over and do the same in relation to the second blind hole. We install furniture ties in them.
We grind the wooden ax handle and soak it in oil, just like the ax head. We sharpen the blade, cover the inside of the eye with anti-corrosion mastic and replace the handle by hitting the tail of the ax with a hammer.
We tighten the furniture ties with a hexagon until they stop and the ax is completely ready for work.
