Furniture, assembled without dowels will be fragile and shaky, because dowels are designed to withstand shear forces, and if they are also attached to glue, then also tear-off forces. This fastening element, and even the required size, is not always at hand. But you can do it yourself with regular tools and some carpentry skills.
Will need
- Multilayer plywood;
- wood glue;
- self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws;
- Miter saw;
- screwdriver;
- axing hacksaw;
- drilling machine, etc.
The process of cutting dowels on wood with a miter saw
Let's start by assembling the dowel making device. To do this, we cut out its elements from multilayer plywood.
We glue two equal bars to the rectangular base along the long side and further strengthen them with screws or self-tapping screws.
On the smaller sides of the base, adjacent to and perpendicular to the fixed bars, we also glue and fasten with screws the bars beveled in height with a reduced height to the free side of the base.The length of the beveled bars is shorter than the smaller sides of the base.
At the junction of the rectangular bars, we make a transverse cut at the base to the calculated distance.
We cut two equal bars from multi-layer plywood. In the third block of the same dimensions, we make a longitudinal chip along the long side in one corner.
We glue two bars flat, clamp them with a clamp and strengthen the connection with three screws, and drill a through hole in the center with a core drill.
We install this unit on the front side of the base on one side of the transverse cut, pressing their ends to the longitudinally located bars, and fix them from the bottom of the base with screws.
In a block with a longitudinal chip, we use a miter saw to make a side notch of the given dimensions to the thickness of the saw blade, consistent with the transverse cut at the base.
We make a through hole next to the cylindrical side of the cut so that its generatrice touches the cylindrical side of the cut.
We press this beam against two bars so that its hole is coaxial with the hole in the two bars, and fix it to the two bars with a clamp.
On one side of a square-shaped wooden piece, we form a kind of shank for clamping it into a drill chuck, and on the other, a truncated cone for tight installation in a hole with a side cut.
We turn on the drill and miter saw in counter-rotation mode and at the same time, using the drill, we organize uniform movement of the workpiece.
As a result of these three coordinated movements, reliable wooden sticks are obtained from a square blank, which can then, if desired, be easily cut into wooden dowels - dowels of a given diameter.
