Just 20-30 years ago, growing watermelons in central Russia and the Far East was considered possible only in a greenhouse. However, today, with the advent of new covering materials and super early varieties, obtaining their harvest in areas of unfavorable agriculture has become a feasible task.
Currently, melon plantations in the risky farming zone can be observed not only on the plots of amateur enthusiasts, but also on farms.
Varieties and growing season
The varieties Crimson, Producer, and Barrel of Honey have proven themselves well. The life cycle of early varieties is 3.5-4.5 months. This period can be divided into two stages:
- The first is growth to the first flowers.
- The second is flowering and harvest formation.
Growing seedlings
Watermelons in central Russia, the Urals and the Far East can only be grown using seedlings.
In mid-April, the seeds are soaked; after three days, some of them will hatch. They are sown in pots filled with a mixture of sand and peat in a 2:1 ratio, but so that the lump of substrate does not crumble when transplanted into the garden bed.
At the end of April, the seedlings can be transplanted into a greenhouse, covered with a double layer of lutrasil with a density of 60 g/m.
At the end of spring and beginning of summer, the plants, having previously hardened them, are planted in a permanent place. By this time, the seedlings should have at least 3 true leaves.
Choosing a landing site
A sunny, windless location would be ideal. If necessary, temporary shelters are installed to protect from the wind.
Preparing the bed
The soil is light. River sand and humus are added to heavy ones.
It is better to make the bed a mound, up to a meter wide and 30-40 centimeters high. Or build wooden ones. The soil is covered with an opaque black polyethylene film, which will ensure the preservation of heat and moisture and protect against waterlogging.
Planting a watermelon
Two hours before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly.
Cross-shaped cuts are made in the center of the bed at a distance of 70 cm, holes are dug under them, ash and superphosphate are added, and the earth is mixed. The planting site is watered abundantly, and the seedlings, along with a lump of earth, are transplanted into the garden bed. Covered with dry soil. Mulching with river sand helps prevent root collar rot.
Wide arcs are placed over the bed (the plants grow strongly), and covering material is attached to them.
Care
Before flowering, watermelons grow under lutrasil. In the absence of precipitation, carry out two or three waterings, no more and without fanaticism, otherwise root rot may appear.
After flowering begins, the lutrasil is removed (in cool weather, the shelter can be left overnight) so that insects can pollinate the flowers, and a windbreak is installed.
The shoots on the plant are partially pruned. There is no need to remove everything, since male flowers grow on them. The main lash is not touched; the women's lashes are placed on it. From 3 to 5 watermelon ovaries are left on one plant.To prevent them from coming into contact with the ground and to prevent them from rotting in wet weather, I place planks under the fruits.
The second method of pruning is to cut the lashes at 6-7 nodes above the ovary, which has reached the size of an average apple. Not earlier, otherwise the fruit will dry out.
Feeding is standard.
Determination of ripeness
There is a tendril next to the tail of the watermelon. When it (and not the tail!) dries, and the side on which the berry lies turns yellow, the dessert is ready to eat.
