Hi all. Today I will tell you about a regulator (thermostat) for domestic use. This is a complete device, not some kind of board that still needs to be powered with something and know how to connect. Therefore, anyone can handle it, without knowledge of electronics, by watching this video or reading the instructions included in the kit.
The device is designed to control temperatures from -40 to +120 degrees Celsius and can operate for both heating and cooling. It can be used for an aquarium, terrarium, incubator, greenhouses, refrigerators, boilers, etc., and simply to maintain the temperature in the room, which, in fact, is what I use it for.
In the spring-autumn period, I either turn off the heating early or turn it on late. This is an eternal problem in an apartment. I take this thermostat and connect a heater to it. As a result, the room always has a stable temperature, which I can set with great precision. The thermostat, which is located in the heater, is no good - it maintains the upper limit of heating the heater, and generally works as soon as it pleases.
In appearance, the thermostat looks more like a surge protector with one socket. The socket is universal and is designed to accept plugs from any country, ours is no exception. Above the socket is a display. The display is large, bright, two-row, two-color, making the readings visible from a great distance. Above the display there is an indicator – Light-emitting diode, signaling that the load is on. From the thermostat, in addition to the power plug, comes a temperature control sensor, which must be installed at the control object.
There are holes on the back of the case for mounting on a wall or any other surface, which is very convenient. On the sides there are four rubberized control buttons that are comfortable to the touch: two on the left and two on the right.
Let's turn on the thermostat. The upper reading is the sensor temperature, which is displayed in real time, the lower reading is the maintained temperature that the user has set.
Agree that two-color readings look very nice.
Let's look at the function of the buttons and the available settings and modes. Here I give you a drawing of what is drawn on the buttons and described in the instructions that come with the kit. And again it is in Chinese and English. The first button on the bottom left is labeled as you probably already guessed - on/off. I want to upset you: you are mistaken, just as I was wrong. This turns out to be a factory reset. If you need to roll back the device to the initial settings, simply hold this button for more than 5 seconds until the upper (green) readings blink. After this, all settings will be reset. Press the same button again to stop the readings from flashing.
Next, the only and main menu of the device consists of 4 items: P0-P3. In order to get to this menu, you must press and hold the “S” button for more than 3 seconds until “P0” appears. The value of this item is displayed in the bottom line. You need to move from point to point using the same “S” button; the points will scroll through the circle P0-P3. Use the up and down arrow buttons to set the values you need. To exit the menu, press the reset button with the “on-off” icon, or wait 5 seconds and only then the set values will take effect.
Now let's look at what all the menu items mean:
Let's go through each point.
P0 – our thermostat regulator has the ability to work as a fire control, controlling, say, a heater. Turning on (closing) the relay contacts when the temperature drops below the set value (mode “H”). Or work on cooling, controlling, say, a cooler or a fan. Turning on (closing) the relay contacts when the temperature exceeds the set value (mode “C”).
I will set the mode to "H" to heat the room.
P1 – maintenance temperature. Set any value from -40 to +120. If you hold down the arrow buttons for a long time, the readings will begin to increase or decrease on their own, if you need to radically change the readings without pressing the buttons 150 times.
I will set it to 29 degrees to demonstrate how the device works.
P2 - Delay before turning on the load. As soon as the readings have reached the desired level, the time relay is triggered and, upon completion, turns on the relay if the specified levels are within the response limit.To put it simply, it happens that the temperature reaches 29 degrees, and after 2-3 minutes it drops again to 28, as a result of which short-term switching of the load occurs, which cannot have a very good effect. This is where a time relay can come in handy.
I'll set it to zero.
P3 – hysteresis or difference between on and off temperatures. Initially, the factory settings are set to 0.5 degrees Celsius, which means that for mode “H” the load in my case will turn on when it reaches 28.5 degrees and turn off when it reaches 29 degrees.
Initially 0.5. I'll leave it unchanged.
I'll connect the load. I turn on the thermometer. Since the temperature is now less than 29 degrees, it is burning Light-emitting diode and the load, such as a heater, is running. Now I use my hand to simulate the fact that the room has warmed up and the load will turn off. Warmed up. The load turned off at 29 degrees. I'll leave it to cool. The load turned on at 28.5 degrees. Everything works fine.
If during operation the sensor readings exceed +120 degrees, then “HHH” will appear on the display. And if the temperature drops below – 40 degrees, the display will show “LLL”. The same readings may appear if the sensor is faulty or the wire to it is broken.
Here we looked at the thermostat in action. Now I will talk about the warning specified in the instructions:
1. The device cannot be installed in places where water drips and the humidity exceeds 90%. The sensor itself is sealed and can be installed anywhere, but the device does not tolerate water or high humidity.
2. The temperature sensor wire must be run separately from the high-voltage wires. Since interference from the network may not affect the readings of the device.
3. The thermostat controls mainly the energy-intensive load, so pay special attention to the reliability of the electrical connections: the thermostat to the network, the controller to the load.
Let's go through the characteristics of this device:
- Model: MH-2000
- Black color
- Material: PC plastic.
- Operating voltage: 90V~250V
- Rated current: 10A.
- Power consumption: ≤ 3W.
- Standby power consumption: ≤0. 5 W.
- Temperature control accuracy: 0.1 °C.
- Resolution: 0.1 °C.
- Measurement error: ±0. 3 °C.
- Control range: -40 ~ 120 °C.
- Rotary temperature range: 0.1~30°C (adjustable).
- Operating temperature: -20~70°C.
- Operating humidity: 90% RH, non-condensing.
- Temperature sensor: NTC 25 degrees = 10K B3435 ± 1% (1.48 m).
- Power cord length: 1.5 m.
- Sensor wire length: 1.5 m.
- Relay: 10A/250V.
- Size: 155x60x28 mm.
- Weight: 245.2 g.
- Package size: 155x60x28.5 mm.
- Package weight: 317 g.
In conclusion, I want to say the general impression: the regulator has a high-quality body, wires, and buttons. The case has a full size, which is very pleasing, this is not a Chinese trifle. It definitely doesn’t feel like a cheap thing that will break or crack today or tomorrow. Impressions of the work and external quality are very positive. The regulator worked for me for about a month: no complaints or comments, I will give 5 plus for the work.
This is an excellent household thermostat. I personally really liked it.
Purchase link -
I have everything) Thank you for watching this video! If you liked it, please give it a like. All questions are in the comments. The lowest price of the device is via the links in the description under the video. Subscribe to the channel. Goodbye. Until next time.
