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Damage to the power cord is a common cause of power tool failure. To fix a breakdown, it is not necessary to contact a service center, because you can repair the drill yourself. Our master class describes in detail the diagnostic process and the procedure for restoring or replacing the power cord.
Power cord repair

Indirect signs of a faulty power cable - the electric drill simply does not turn on or works intermittently. In this case, there is voltage in the socket, but there are no signs of mechanical failure of the tool (the drill chuck rotates freely by hand).

Preparing for work


To check and subsequently repair the drill you will need a tool kit:
  • Screwdrivers.
  • Wire cutters.
  • Insulation removal pliers.
  • Multimeter or indicator screwdriver.
  • Soldering iron.
  • Solder, rosin.
  • Insulating tape.

Power cord repair

You can do without the soldering kit needed to tin the wires. The drill will work fine, but we recommend tinning the wires for two reasons:
Copper conductors will oxidize much more slowly, which means reliable contact will last longer.
The solder is guaranteed to hold all the wires together, ensuring the passage of current throughout the entire cross-section of the conductor.
If you need to replace the cord with a new one, purchase a cable with a rubber sheath, which is much more elastic than PVC film. There are many types of flexible wires, the most common are “KG” (Russian) and H-07-RN (foreign). Select the length of the cord that is convenient for work; according to professional experience in using an electric drill, the optimal length is about 4 meters.
The cable cross-section depends on the power of the tool:
  • up to 500 W – 2x0.75 sq. mm.;
  • up to 900 W – 2x1.0 sq. mm.;
  • up to 1500 W – 2x1.5 sq. mm.

Before use, remove the side handle of the electric drill so that it is not in the way.
Power cord repair

Fault diagnosis


Before disassembling a non-working drill, plug it into a power outlet and move the power cable near the entrance to the case by pressing or locking the power button. The tool will show signs of life if the cause of the breakdown is chafing of the wires in the bends of the cord.
Power cord repair

Unplug the cable from the outlet and begin disassembling the drill. First, use a screwdriver to remove the bolts holding the plastic halves of the housing together.
Power cord repair

See if there are additional latches that need to be pressed or unclipped. Now separate the halves, carefully prying them with a screwdriver if necessary.
Power cord repair

After removing the cover, take a photo or remember the placement of parts and wires.
Power cord repair

Test both wires of the power cable with a multimeter. To do this, connect the probes in ohmmeter mode to the cord terminal and to the plug contact. Repeat with the other wire.
Power cord repair

If you don't have a tester, use an indicator screwdriver to check. Connect the electric drill to the network, find the phase on one of the contacts with the indicator. Turn the plug over in the socket and look for the phase again; if at least at one stage the network is not detected, the cable is faulty.
Remove the failed cord by unscrewing the clamping bar and loosening the contacts of the block.
Power cord repair

Most often, cable cores fray at bends.
Power cord repair

The cause of the voltage loss may also be hidden in the plug of the electric drill, especially if it shows signs of damage (for example, bent plugs).
Power cord repair


Power cord repair


If the cord is long enough, simply cut off the worn section. The short cable will have to be replaced with a new one.
Power cord repair

At the same time, it is advisable to change the roughened or cracked bushing at the cable entry point. It is not at all necessary to look for a “native” one; a suitable part can be easily selected in any auto shop. For example, a protective cover for the electric door lock rod was suitable for this drill.
Power cord repair

Try on the rubber bushing in the drill body and trim off the excess.
Power cord repair

Place the cover on the cable and measure the stripping length of the conductors locally.
Power cord repair

Cut the outer rubber casing with pliers.
Power cord repair

Remove about 10mm of insulation from the ends of the cores using a special tool.
Power cord repair

Check the serviceability of the cord with a tester.
Power cord repair

Twist the cable cores, dip them in rosin and apply solder in an even layer.
Power cord repair

Wrap several layers of insulating tape where the cord is secured.
Power cord repair

Connect the conductors to the block or directly to the button terminals, depending on the circuit of your electric drill.
Power cord repair

Secure both screws of the fixing clamp.
Power cord repair

Carefully lay the wires, plug the electric drill into the outlet and measure the voltage.
Power cord repair

Check the location of parts and conductors, assemble the housing and fasten it with screws.
Power cord repair

Connect the electric drill to the mains and make sure the tool is working properly.
Power cord repair

When performing repair work yourself, remember safety. Plug in a disassembled drill only to measure voltage using insulated tester probes. After this, immediately remove the plug from the tool to avoid electric shock.
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Comments (6)
  1. Guest Igor
    #1 Guest Igor Guests 19 September 2018 13:39
    3
    In Soviet times, this was taught in labor lessons; any kid could do it.
    1. andmich
      #2 andmich Guests October 6, 2018 11:37
      3
      I agree, we didn’t even think about this before. they did everything. and now they write articles with pictures. made it! the sight of a screwdriver and pliers evokes “interesting feelings” and is akin to nanotechnology.
    2. Guest Alex
      #3 Guest Alex Guests 5 January 2020 16:47
      1
      Alas, now 1) Non-Soviet times; 2) not every school has labor lessons; 3) not every school has a labor teacher...
  2. andmich
    #4 andmich Guests October 6, 2018 11:35
    2
    relevant!
  3. Scream69
    #5 Scream69 Guests May 13, 2020 00:07
    5
    Why is it so difficult? Is it really impossible to buy clamps? What's the point in soldering here? Also with a terminal block.
  4. Volodymyr
    #6 Volodymyr Guests November 3, 2021 11:00
    0
    Finally I found the name of the part - insulating sleeve. Elsewhere there is a protective tube. But I liked the idea of ​​choosing a replacement for the original, old bushing. By the way, in my angle grinder the wires did not have crimped contacts or were tinned.

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