On used cars, you can often feel a pulsing or vibration when you press the brake pedal. The reason for this lies in the rust crust on the brake discs. Its presence makes braking less effective, and is also accompanied by a characteristic grinding noise. This problem can be solved by grinding the discs, which is very easy to do on a homemade machine. Such a machine can be welded in your garage or workshop in just 2 hours.
Materials:
- Motor from a washing machine;
- sheet steel 3 mm;
- corner 20x20 mm;
- wheel hub;
- drive belt;
- valve spring;
- pipe 25-32 mm.
Manufacturing process of a brake disc grinding machine
It is necessary to cut a plate from sheet steel that will serve as the sole of the machine. Its dimensions are individual, as they depend on the diameter of the disk and the available drive belt. It is necessary that there is enough space to mount the engine and hub on the sole, while ensuring that the grinding disc does not come into contact with the motor pulley.
A steel rod of suitable diameter is inserted into the standard mount of the washing machine motor. Then 2 eyes and a jumper are cut out of sheet steel or strip, from which the fastening bracket is welded.
The engine needs to be installed vertically with the shaft up on the sole, placing something underneath to create a gap of 10-20 mm to it. The bracket is then welded to the plate from below. To prevent it from bending, you should cook the gusset for rigidity.
A stand must be welded to the side of the sole to install the hub. To do this, you can use the wheel toe adjustment clutch. It has grooves that allow you to clamp the hub. The coupling nut is welded to the tube to extend the structure.
Next, you need to calculate the height at which the hub will be placed relative to the pulley on the electric motor shaft. It should be lower so that the disk attached to it is flush with the pulley. The tube is welded vertically to the sole. To prevent it from being torn out, the connection is strengthened with scarves.
A valve spring is inserted between the engine and its mount. To prevent it from falling out, it can be welded. The hub is screwed to the side.
Now you need to connect the cable with the plug to the electric motor. If there are 4 wirings, then using trial methods you can find the combination of two of them that will start it. Nothing bad will happen; you can safely screw the cable and plug in and plug it into the socket. If the engine does not start, then you need to connect to another pair of wires. Excess wiring is isolated.
The brake disc is clamped onto the hub. The drive belt is pulled between it and the motor pulley. If it is too short, the spring resistance can bend the thin steel sole. To prevent this from happening, it may need to be strengthened by welding the corners on the bottom.
With a load in the form of a disk, the motor does not start; it needs to be pushed slightly. Then, after acceleration, the surface of the brake disc is ground. First, coarse sandpaper P80 is used, and then the grit is reduced to P320. The result is a smooth, scratch-free disc that brakes smoothly and quietly.
